A Guide to Roman Artichokes
Visiting Rome between Christmas and Easter? You must indulge in the local artichokes! Whether fried, braised, tossed with pasta, or raw in a salad, these culinary delights are a highlight of the season and a sure sign that spring is on its way.
When to Eat Artichokes in Rome
Artichokes begin appearing at Roman market stalls in October, but these early varieties are mainly from southern Italy and France. While these are delicious, the true Roman globe artichokes start to pop up in the new year. Their production peaks in early spring, making them more affordable and abundant before disappearing until the next year. This seasonality, as with much of Italy’s fresh produce, makes the artichoke season a joy as locals and visitors savor these purple-green flowers in as many ways as possible.
How to Eat Artichokes in Rome
The locally-grown Roman artichoke varieties (look for romaneschi, cimaroli, or mammole) offer rich, fleshy interior leaves and typically lack the spiky inner choke found in other types. While other countries usually eat the leaves and discard the stalk, Romans trim the hard outer leaves, base, and exterior part of the stem before cooking the artichokes whole. This makes the result fully edible, with many Romans believing the stem (gambo) to be the best part. Once cleaned, it’s crucial to rub them with fresh lemon and keep them in water with lemon juice to prevent oxidizing.
During peak season, artichokes can be found on menus in various forms, from pasta dishes with sliced artichokes and guanciale to thinly sliced artichoke salads with shavings of Parmigiano. However, the two most traditional and common recipes are:
Roman-Style Artichokes (Carciofi alla Romana) After trimming, the artichokes are stuffed with a mixture of finely chopped garlic and herbs (parsley and Roman wild mint). They are then packed stalk-up in a pan, covered with olive oil and water or white wine, and braised until they become soft and melt-in-the-mouth.
Jewish-Style Artichokes (Carciofi alla Giudia) This dish originates from Jewish-Roman cuisine and is now a staple in Roman life. After cleaning, the artichokes are gently fried whole and left to cool. Just before serving, they are re-fried at a higher temperature to open out like sunflowers and crisp up the leaves until golden. A sprinkle of salt finishes them off, and they are eaten petal-by-petal, like potato chips.
Where to Eat and Buy Artichokes in Rome
When it comes to artichokes, timing is everything. Although some restaurants in Rome keep artichoke dishes on the menu year-round, they are best enjoyed in season. Once the season kicks in, they appear on most menus, particularly in the Jewish ghetto area of Rome, where mountains of them are piled outside restaurants along Via Portico d’Ottavia. Remember, fresh seasonal produce in Italy is often not listed on the menu as it changes daily, so always ask if carciofi are available.
Markets in Rome are the perfect place to buy the best artichokes, and they often offer cleaning services for a small extra charge, saving you time and effort. If you tell the stallholder what you plan to make, they will ensure you have the right ingredients and may even share their recipe. Head to Testaccio market, where the street food stalls serve up Roman and Jewish versions for you to enjoy on the go.
Discover more about seasonal Roman produce in any of our morning cooking classes, which include a tour of the local food market. We also offer a tour of the Farmer’s Market in Rome on the weekend when all other food markets are closed.
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